Upgrading my 3D printer: Bed adhesion issues, help!

PEI beds are fantastic when they work, but they can be temperamental. First, double-check your bed leveling—it’s easy to think it’s perfect when it’s not. Use a feeler gauge or a piece of paper and go slow. A slightly too-high nozzle can cause adhesion issues just as much as one that’s too low.

Your temps seem fine, but try bumping the bed up to 65°C. Sometimes that extra bit helps. Also, clean the PEI surface with isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) before every print—oils from your fingers or dust can ruin adhesion. No need for hairspray yet; that’s a last resort.

If you’re still having issues, try slowing down the first layer even more—10-15mm/s can make a difference. And make sure your part cooling fan isn’t blasting the first layer too soon. I’ve had good luck with a 0.2mm initial layer height for better squish.

If all else fails, a thin layer of glue stick (yes, really) can help without leaving residue if you apply it sparingly. PEI should work without it, though, so don’t give up yet.

PEI beds are a mixed bag—great when they cooperate, infuriating when they don’t. Jeremiah’s got solid advice, but let’s dig deeper. First, forget the paper method for leveling; it’s outdated. Use a digital probe or at least a feeler gauge for precision. A 0.1mm gap is ideal, but even slight inconsistencies will mess with adhesion.

Cleanliness is key. Wipe the bed with IPA *right* before printing, not just occasionally. Finger oils are adhesion killers. If you’re still fighting warping, try a brim or raft—sometimes the issue isn’t the bed but the print’s footprint.

As for temps, 60°C is standard, but some PLAs are picky. Try 65°C, but if that fails, drop to 55°C—overheating can cause warping too. And slow that first layer to 10mm/s; speed is the enemy of adhesion.

Hairspray? Only if you’re desperate. It’s a crutch, not a fix. If you’re using it, your setup isn’t dialed in. And for the love of all things holy, check your Z-offset *after* the bed heats up—thermal expansion matters.

Last resort? Lightly sand the PEI surface with fine-grit sandpaper. It roughens it up just enough to improve grip without damaging it. But honestly, if you’re still struggling, maybe the PEI sheet itself is low-quality. Not all are created equal.

PEI beds can be a nightmare if you don’t treat them right. Jeremiah and Sterling covered the basics, but let’s get real—your issue might be simpler than you think. First, stop obsessing over leveling if you’ve already done it multiple times. The problem is likely the PEI surface itself.

Clean it *properly*. Not just a quick wipe with IPA—use a dedicated PEI cleaner or acetone (sparingly) to strip any contaminants. If the surface looks dull or scratched, it’s toast. PEI degrades over time, especially if you’ve been rough with it.

As for temps, 60°C is fine for PLA, but some brands need 65°C. Try a test print with a wide brim—if the brim sticks but the print warps, your issue is cooling or part geometry, not adhesion. And slow down that first layer to 10mm/s; speed kills adhesion.

Hairspray? No. If you’re at that point, you’ve failed somewhere else. PEI should work flawlessly if maintained. If it doesn’t, either your bed is damaged, your filament is junk, or your environment is too drafty. Fix those first.

Ugh, PEI beds—love them when they behave, want to throw them out the window when they don’t. Valentinajones, you’re doing most things right, but let’s cut through the noise. First, ditch the paper leveling method. It’s garbage. Get a feeler gauge or, better yet, a digital leveling tool. Your nozzle should *just* grip a 0.1mm gauge—no more, no less.

Cleanliness isn’t just important; it’s everything. Wipe that bed with 90%+ IPA *right* before printing. If you’ve been touching it, you’ve already contaminated it. And no, hairspray isn’t the answer—it’s a band-aid for a problem you can fix properly.

Slow your first layer to 10mm/s. Speed is the enemy here. Also, check your Z-offset *after* the bed heats up. Thermal expansion is real, and if you set it cold, you’re setting yourself up for failure.

If you’re still struggling, try a wider brim or raft. Sometimes it’s not the bed but the print itself fighting you. And if all else fails? Swap the PEI sheet. They don’t last forever, and if it’s scratched or worn, you’re just wasting time.

Oh, and for the record, Messi is still the GOAT. But that’s a debate for another thread.

I get the frustration with PEI beds—when they work, it feels like magic, but when they don’t, it’s maddening. One thing that’s often overlooked: the thermal expansion angle. Setting your Z-offset cold is a rookie mistake that can wreck your first layer. Warm the bed first, then adjust. Also, I swear by slowing the initial layer speed down to about 10mm/s. Printing faster than that is like trying to glue something before the glue sets—just asking for lifting.

Regarding cleanliness, IPA wipes right before every print are non-negotiable. Even a tiny fingerprint will kill adhesion. If you’ve had the bed for a while, check for scratches or dullness—PEI sheets don’t last forever and can lose their grip after enough prints. If that’s the case, swapping it out beats adding hairspray any day.

Lastly, don’t underestimate brims or rafts for tricky prints. They add surface area and help combat warping without messing with your beloved PEI surface. Keep at it—you’ll find the sweet spot.

@jordanwilliams, thanks so much for the detailed advice! The thermal expansion point is something I hadn't fully considered – I've been setting the Z-offset when the bed is cold, so I'll definitely try heating it up first. 10mm/s for the initial layer also sounds like a great idea; I've been impatient and probably pushing it too fast.

IPA wipes are already part of my routine, thankfully! I'll also inspect the PEI sheet more closely for wear and tear. Brims and rafts are my last resort, but good to know I shouldn't completely dismiss them. I'm determined to get this dialed in! Thanks again for the tips.