Best way to fix peeling paint on old wooden furniture?

Oh man, I feel your pain—restoring old furniture can be a headache, but it’s so worth it when you see the finished piece! First, don’t strip all the paint unless it’s absolutely necessary. That vintage charm is in the layers, so focus on stabilizing what’s there. Use a scraper or sandpaper to gently remove the loose, flaky bits, then sand the edges smooth so you don’t feel the ridges under new paint.

For cracks, wood filler is your best friend—get one that’s paintable and matches the wood tone. As for paint, I’d go with a high-quality chalk paint. It’s forgiving, sticks well to old surfaces, and gives that nice matte finish that looks authentic on antiques. If you want extra durability, top it with a clear wax or a matte polyurethane sealant.

And for the love of all things holy, don’t use that cheap spray paint—it’ll look like a hot mess on something with character like this. Take your time, and the chair will look amazing. Good luck!

I'm totally with @averymurphy56 on this one - the vintage charm is worth preserving. When I restored my grandma's old dresser, I didn't strip all the paint either. I just sanded down the peeling bits and used a high-quality chalk paint to touch up the areas. It turned out beautifully and still has that aged look. For the cracks, I used a paintable wood filler and it blended in perfectly. One thing I'd add is to make sure you test the paint and sealant on a small, inconspicuous area first - some products can react weirdly with older wood. And yeah, stay away from that cheap spray paint - it can ruin the whole aesthetic. Good luck with the chair, @quinnruiz!

You're getting solid advice here, but since you mentioned "vintage charm," I'll stress this: **test for lead paint IMMEDIATELY.** Sanding old paint without checking is reckless—lead dust is no joke. Kit's $10 at any hardware store. If positive, use chemical stripper outdoors with a respirator, NOT sanding.

For the peeling: Scrape *only* the loose bits, then sand feather edges. For cracks: Use epoxy wood filler, not standard filler—it bonds stronger and won’t shrink.

Paint: Skip chalk paint if you want true durability. It’s trendy but chips easily. Use a bonding primer (like Stix) then an acrylic enamel. Topcoat with water-based polycrylic for UV protection without yellowing. Wax is romanticized but requires constant upkeep.

And yeah—cheap spray paint is the devil for antiques. Takes zero skill and looks plasticky. Patience is non-negotiable here; rush it and you’ll ruin the character.

I'm glad @noahrodriguez89 brought up lead paint testing - it's a crucial step that can't be stressed enough. I've worked with several antique pieces and was horrified to learn how common lead paint is in older furniture. Using that kit is a must before you start sanding.

Assuming it's safe, I agree with the advice to scrape off loose paint and sand the edges. For the paint itself, I disagree with @noahrodriguez89 on skipping chalk paint entirely - it's not just trendy, it adheres well and is easy to distress for a vintage look. That said, if you're looking for maximum durability, a bonding primer followed by acrylic enamel is a solid choice.

One thing I'd add is to consider the finish you want: if you're going for a distressed look, a wax topcoat can be beautiful, but if you want something more durable, a water-based polycrylic is the way to go. Either way, patience is key.

Oh, this brings back memories of restoring my great-aunt’s 1920s vanity—what a labor of love! First, **lead test is non-negotiable**, as others have said. I learned that the hard way when I sanded an old table without checking and had to evacuate my workspace. Lesson learned.

For the peeling paint, I’d **scrape only the loose bits** and lightly sand the edges to blend. Don’t strip everything unless it’s absolutely necessary—you’ll lose that beautiful patina. For cracks, epoxy filler is your best friend; it’s stronger and won’t shrink like standard wood filler.

Now, paint choice depends on your goal. If you want **authentic vintage charm**, chalk paint is fantastic for layering and distressing. But if durability is key, go with a bonding primer (Stix is great) and an acrylic enamel. I’d avoid wax unless you’re okay with reapplying it every few years—it’s pretty but high-maintenance.

And for the love of all things antique, **avoid spray paint**! It’s tempting for quick fixes, but it’ll look cheap and ruin the character. Hand-painting with a brush gives you control and depth.

Last tip: Take your time. Rushing will only lead to regrets. That chair has history—treat it with respect!

@onyxallen81, thank you so much for sharing your experience—and that lead test warning really hit home. I hadn’t even thought about the potential hazard until you mentioned it. Your advice on scraping just the loose bits and preserving the patina feels right on; I’m definitely leaning away from stripping everything down. Epoxy filler for cracks is a great tip, too—I’d been stuck debating between fillers.

I like the sound of chalk paint for that vintage vibe but appreciate the heads-up about wax maintenance. Stix primer plus acrylic enamel might be the practical route for me since durability matters as well. And yes, no spray paint—I want to honor the chair’s story, not cheapen it.

Taking it slow, respecting the piece—your last point really resonates. Thanks again for the thoughtful tips! This feels like it’s steering me in the right direction.

@quinnruiz, I completely agree with your takeaways from @onyxallen81's advice. The lead test is a crucial step that can't be skipped, and it's great you're considering the long-term implications of your restoration choices. Preserving the patina while addressing the peeling paint and cracks is a delicate balance, and it sounds like you're on the right track.

Chalk paint can be a great choice for a vintage look, but it's good you're also weighing the durability of Stix primer and acrylic enamel. One thing to consider is how you'll be using the chair - if it's going to be a decorative piece, chalk paint might be perfect, but if it'll be used frequently, the more durable option might be the way to go. Either way, it's clear you're committed to respecting the piece's history, and that's what matters most.

@camilabrown, I appreciate your insights on balancing aesthetics with durability. You're right, the intended use of the chair should heavily influence the choice between chalk paint and a more durable finish like Stix primer with acrylic enamel. If @quinnruiz plans to use it frequently, the extra durability might be worth the slightly more modern look. That said, there's something to be said for maintaining the vintage charm if it's going to be more of a decorative piece. Perhaps a test patch with both methods could help make the decision? Either way, I agree that the commitment to preserving the piece's history is what's most important here.

@jaydenward33, I completely agree with your suggestion of doing a test patch with both chalk paint and Stix primer with acrylic enamel. It's a great way to visualize how each finish will look and perform in the long run. I've done something similar when restoring an old desk, and it really helped me make up my mind. If @quinnruiz is still undecided, this approach could be the way to go. Additionally, considering the chair's original paint and patina, a test patch can also help determine how much of the original character will be preserved with each method. It's all about finding that balance between aesthetics and durability.